Are you thinking about crossing from Pakistan to Afghanistan overland and wondering about the logistics and possible issues you could face? If so, this article about navigating the Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing at Torkham is for you!
While we discuss the craziness that is the Torkham border crossing into Afghanistan, we’ll also be answering the following questions:
⭐ How can I get from Peshawar to Torkham?
⭐ Is it easy to cross the Torkham border?
⭐ When is the best time to cross the Torkham Afghanistan border?
⭐ What are the opening hours for the Torkham border crossing?
⭐ How many Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing points are there?
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A Little Background on the Pakistan Afghanistan Border Crossing Points
There are eight border checkpoints between Pakistan and Afghanistan, but the Torkham control point is one of only three Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing points that are open to international visitors. It will take you from the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province in Pakistan to the Nangarhar province of Afghanistan.
If you aim to get to Kabul, then this is the most convenient place to cross. In fact, it’s probably the best option to travel from Pakistan to Afghanistan overland, for reasons that I’ll detail below.
Of the other seven Pakistan Afghanistan border crossings, the only ones open to international travellers are the Ghulam Khan crossing, from the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province to the Khost province in Afghanistan, as well as the Chaman crossing in the Balochistan province of Pakistan.
Ghulam Khan could be handy if you want to go to Gardez or Ghazni, while the Chaman border would be good for crossing over into the Kandahar province in the south of Afghanistan.
While it’s possible to cross through them, none of these Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing points are easy to get to if you’re travelling independently. That’s not because of the proximity to Afghanistan, as many may think. It’s actually due to the internal political situation in the area, namely anti-government activism incited by unfair distribution of resources.
I really don’t want to go into the sordid politics of it all, so let me just explain how this makes things, let’s say, interesting, on the ground.
How can I get from Peshawar to the Torkham Border?
To cross at the Torkham border crossing, you will have to go from Peshawar, (where you can also get the Afghanistan visa). Peshawar is the capital of the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, (or KPK), province, which the Pakistan government has deemed ‘dangerous’ for visitors.
I saw nothing to indicate this was true while I was in the province, but that’s entirely besides the point. You have no choice but to fall in line with what the police think. This creates some extra ‘fun’ with trip planning.
It took me two attempts to make it to the border. On the first attempt, I wasn’t allowed past the checkpoint about 20 kilometres out of the city, Then the second time, the Pakistan police took the safety of their ‘sister’ so seriously that they decided they needed to come with me.
It’s very likely you won’t get to the border without a police escort.
My escort had me riding in about 5 different cars. At every checkpoint, the car and officers would change and there would be pictures taken. They said these pictures were for their records, but it seemed more like they were posing for Instagram.
Is it Worth Trying Another Pakistan Afghanistan Border Crossing?
If you’re thinking that all sounds a bit difficult and annoying.. well, yeah, it is! Should you try the crossing the Ghulam Khan crossing, or the Chaman crossing in Balochistan instead? Sure, if you want to.
However..
The Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing at Ghulam Khan is also in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province, so it’s going to be pretty much the same story as the Torkham border crossing. Or perhaps just a little more challenging because it’s a more remote area.
As for Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing at Chaman; it’s almost impossible to even get into the Balochistan province without permits and a guide. While it’s true that you can sneak in with the help of locals in different cities and their friends who’ll keep you under the radar enroute, heading to the border will almost certainly alert the police to your presence in the province.
There have been reports that people who have entered Balochistan from Iran have been forced to pay for a guide and permits, right there at the border, in order to able able to enter the country. If caught in the province on the Pakistan side, something similar might happen, or you will be escorted out of the province
Therefore, the Torkham border crossing is probably the easiest of the three options for getting from Pakistan to Afghanistan overland.
So let’s get into what it looks like to cross the Torkham Afghanistan border from Pakistan.
Pakistan Side of The Torkham Border Crossing
Once at the border, things get confusing. There are no signs. Add that to the insane crowds of people and it would be easy to become disoriented. Luckily, one of the policeman who had been in the last car with me, walked into the border area with me decided to guide me through the chaos.
I guess the police don’t just escort you to the border, but also guide you through to the other side of it too.
Thanks to him persistently shouting at people to let me through, I was able to make it to an immigration counter in about 10 minutes.
It was a bit surreal actually. He would yell out something, (probably something like, “Foreign woman coming through”), people would turn around, see me, then move out of the way and try to protect me as much as they could in the process.
If I had been by myself, I think it would’ve taken me hours to get through because of the crowds and not knowing where to go. There are separate immigration windows for men and women, but there is a huge bottleneck before the windows where everyone is smushed, (in the quite literal sense of the word), in together.
It’s quite a relief when you finally make it to the immigration processing area.
Immigration Experience at the Pakistan Afghanistan Border Crossing at Torkham
My police guide tried to give my passport to immigration at one window, (the men’s one) but was told to go to the other window, (the women’s one). Then at the other window, he was told to go back to the first window.
Tired of being sent between the windows, my guide made an executive decision to head to the staff door at the side of the building. He knocked and we were let it. He dropped my passport on one of the immigration officer’s desks and told him to stamp it.
The officer kind of ignored him to start off with, but a quick glance at my passport, then my very non-Pakistani face changed his mind. His demeanour changed and he told someone to get me a chair so I could sit down. Then he asked me to join him for some chai.
In the meantime, he completed the immigration formalities after checking both my Pakistan and Afghanistan visas. Then we were just waiting for the chai to come.
When the chai hadn’t arrived within in a few minutes, my police guide got impatient and said that we should go. He guided me until the Afghanistan side of the border was in site and the crowds were left behind.
Afghanistan Side of The Torkham Border Crossing
As I emerged from the chaos of the Pakistan side of the border, it was a relief to see an almost empty pathway into the Afghanistan immigration area.
Almost all of the noise from the other side had disappeared and I could hear my own footsteps on the concrete path of the covered walkway to the Torkham Afghanistan border. It was almost like stepping into another world.
Could that have been an indication of what it was going to be like travelling in Afghanistan?
While I hoped this was an indication of things to come, I also thought that it could just be the calm before the storm. Was another bottleneck waiting for me inside the Afghanistan immigration hall at this Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing?
Thankfully, there wasn’t.
Immigration Experience at the Torkham Afghanistan Border
When I entered the hall, there were only two desks open and not many people in line at either of them. I was the only woman in the hall though.
I joined the shortest line, (there were only two people in front of me), but when the officer at the other desk finished processing the visitor at his desk, he waved me over. The men already in line at that desk smiled at me and stood aside to allow me to approach the desk in front of them.
If I had to guess, he did that because they didn’t have a desk for women and Islamic countries always try to process women first.
The officer didn’t ask me anything. In fact, he didn’t speak at all, which was honestly something a bit different for me at a border crossing. As he handed back my passport, another man who had appeared behind him, enquired about my well being.
That man told me his name, but unfortunately, I didn’t really catch it. He said he was from some part of the government that oversees tourism. Again I didn’t catch the name of the department. He asked me, in a super casual way, to join him in the tourism office behind the immigration hall.
Second Boss at the Torkham Afghanistan Border
Mr Tourism sat behind his desk and motioned for me to sit on the other side of the desk. Then he asked if I wanted to drink chai and proceeded to ask me questions, in a very conversational way.
You know, the normal stuff; why are you visiting Afghanistan? Which areas of Afghanistan are you visiting? Do you know anyone is Afghanistan? Blah blah..
Side note: If you’re planning on staying with locals during your visit, don’t divulge that information to the government as it could get those locals in trouble. The official policy is that Afghans can’t have foreigners in their homes. In practice, it may or may not be enforced in some areas, yet it’s something to be aware of.
For one of his questions, I said I didn’t have the information he wanted because I didn’t have internet. So he gave me internet. When I showed him what he wanted to see, he kind of just kept my phone to look through it. I’m not sure what he was looking for, but my phone’s language is set to Chinese and I don’t have any social media apps on it, so he didn’t find anything.
Important Things to Know About the Pakistan Afghanistan Border Crossing at Torkham
I know this has been a long one, so let me just recap the important bits for you.
If you want to travel from Pakistan to Afghanistan overland, the Torkham border crossing is the best place to do it. Although getting to the Torkham border crossing can be a bit of a pain in the butt due of the inevitable police escort, the police may also guide you through the Pakistan side of the crossing, which is infinitely helpful.
Once you reach the immigration area, the procedure is fairly quick on both sides. What is likely to take up most of your time on your Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing is navigating the crowds and finding your way with the lack of signage.
There may be chai offered on both sides of the border when you do your Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing. That’s because tea is a show of hospitality in both cultures.
If you’re a woman travelling alone, you may get through the Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing more quickly due to people insisting you jump the line.
Final Thoughts on the Pakistan Afghanistan Border Crossing at Torkham
As you can see, aside from the crazy crowds on one side, crossing the Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing at Torkham is a relatively easy and pleasant experience.
One more thing, tensions can sometimes flare up around the Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing areas and lead to closures or reduced service hours. This a handy Torkham Border Crossing Status Checker will help you stay updated on the current border situation to help you avoid any unforeseen issues.
I know this has been a long one, so let me just do a quick recap to summarise the important bits for you –
⭐How can I get from Peshawar to Torkham?
It’s almost certain these days that the only way you’ll get to the border is with a police escort. You can try to do without if you love adventure and uncertainty, but you’ll probably end up with the escort anyway.
⭐ Is it easy to cross the Torkham border?
In short, mostly yes. although the Pakistan side is an absolute clusterf*(k and not at all easy to cross without the help of a local, the Afghanistan side is quiet and calm. The immigration process is relatively easy on both sides and may involve chai.
⭐ When is the best time to cross the Torkham Afghanistan border?
To be honest, it’s probably chaotic on the Pakistan side most the time. So the best option could be to get an early start.
⭐ What are the opening hours for the Torkham border crossing?
I couldn’t find any official information on this, but some locals indicated it was open 24 hours, except the day of my first attempt. So the best I can figure is that it’s open 24 hours for 6 days of the week.
⭐ How many Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing points are there?
Altogether, there are eight Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing points, although only three are open to international visitors. This article focused on the Torkham border crossing, which takes you from the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan to the Nangarhar province of Afghanistan. The other two Pakistan Afghanistan border crossing points are Ghulam Khan in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province and Chaman in the Balochistan Province. Even though it presents some challenges, the Torkham border crossing is the best option for crossing from Pakistan to Afghanistan overland.
⭐ Should I travel from Pakistan to Afghanistan overland?
That’s totally up to you! The information here should help you guide you with that. Although my recommendation would be yes. Going through one of the Pakistan Afghanistan border crossings is an adventure that you won’t forget any time soon.
Would you like to know what it’s like to travel independently in Afghanistan? Or read about the adventures you could have in the country? Feel free to click through to my other stories from the road in Afghanistan –
Afghanistan Adventure from the Torkham Border to Kabul via Jalalabad [Coming soon]
What it’s like in Ghazni [Coming soon]
History and Hospitality in Kandahar [Coming soon]
Herat [Coming soon]
Where females are boss in Afghanistan [Coming soon]
Afghanistan Travel Advice [Coming soon]
First, visit the Afghan Online Visa Application Office at Shinwari Gate. There you will pay 500 PKR for an application form that the staff will fill out for you. A passport size photo is also needed. If you don’t have one, you can get some printed from your phone, or get some taken, near the office for 100 PKR.
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My oh my does Kyiv have a lot of green, (or white in winter), spaces! 
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Druskininkai is small, so it’s guaranteed to be void of crowds. As if that doesn’t sound amazing enough, it is also situated on Lithuania’s longest river; the Nemunas, or Neman, River.
This little Lithuanian town is surrounded by forest. If you walk any distance in the town, it’s almost impossible not to stumble upon some nature.
The K Dineika Wellness Park is a beautiful woodland park with concrete paths winding through it. 
There are no less than three small parks to be found on a two kilometre strip of the town’s main road, MK Čiurlionio gatvė.
Aside from music-themed sculptures, the park also has some weather-resistant reproductions of local artwork on display!
Right next to the bus station you can see ežeras Druskonis or Lake Druskonis. 
A walk around the frozen lake is lovely and will bring you to a memorial called Sovietų karių kapinės or Soviet Soldiers Cemetery.
Lake Druskonis is flanked on one side by the huge Senosios Miesto Kapinės or Old City Cemetery. 
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After the snow clearing, which took several minutes, Andrei drove me around the city and showed me where the main points of interest were.
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You’ll know the main entrance when you see it because it looks like a huge slab of concrete with a star punched out of it.
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At a staggering 33.5 metres tall, it towers over the Square of Ceremonies.
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Just past the river, there were some ruins of a castle.
Next, he took me to a Russian Orthodox church.
Behind the church was a small bazaar where Pasha said I would be able to buy a cheap pair of gloves.
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After helping me find out where to buy tickets for the train to Brest in the southwest of Belarus, Taya decided to accompany me to the train station.
I was so glad that Taya had come with me, as the train station was kind of confusing!
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Be nice to Georgians!
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About a block away from 9 March Park and Dedaena Park, heading back towards the city, is Park of 9th April and Leondize Park.
The Georgian Orthodox 
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But I definitely got some nice views on the way up, as well as a little preview of what was to come.
As the name suggests, they are chronicles of historical happenings in Georgia.
On the opposite side of the Chronicles from which I entered, there is a view of the Tbilisi Reservoir.
After you’ve admired the reservoir for a bit, you might notice a small church behind you.
I didn’t want to walk back down from the Chronicles of Georgia the same way I had gone up because I wasn’t wearing hiking shoes.
You can also get a 1 day-1 week pass. The card is 2 GEL (US$0.80) and the pass is 3 GEL (US$1.2) for 1 day or 20 GEL (US$7.50) for 1 week.
Just as in 
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When you walk into the station, it isn’t immediately obvious where the ticketing area is.
You can buy your ticket with Armenian Dram or by credit card.
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Now, you’re probably wondering what the sleeping arrangements are like on the Yerevan to Tbilisi train.
It was around 04:45 and freezing, but we had to get off the train. We lined up in front of temporary, container-type buildings on the platform.
A little before 08:10, the lights were turned on and we were all woken up for our arrival.
After visiting a friend in Dubai, I got on a 700 AED (US$190) flight from Dubai to Yerevan with Fly Dubai. 
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If you ask anyone in Yerevan about ‘must see’ places, the first one they mention will almost certainly be 
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Once you get to the top of the complex, the Memorial to the Soviet Armenian 50th Anniversary Monument Terrace is within sight.
Just a few hundred metres walk from the top of the Cascade complex is the Memorial to the Soviet Armenian 50th Anniversary Monument Terrace.
If you look to the right once you reach the Memorial to the Soviet Armenian 50th Anniversary Monument Terrace, you can see a massive monument referred to as Mother Armenia.
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These three parks form a rectangle about a block from the end of Circular Park.
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